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A Weekend of Spirit Chasing in Edinburgh | 
| | A trip to Edinburgh isn’t right unless you celebrate something Scottish, be it haggis in the morning or donning a kilt in the chilly afternoon – it has to be done. If you don’t have the appetite though, there are many equally spirited ways to spend your days in the old town and you’ll find them all spookily Scottish. | From a popular little café, The Elephant House, you can spy the legendary Edinburgh Castle, loaded with stories of kings, queens, love, wars and battles won and lost and over the ages. A quick coffee in the spot J.K. Rowling was alleged to have sat when penning her book – what was it called again? – then you’re ready to head up the hill to the first history lesson of the day.
Once you’ve conquered the royal mile, and the queue, it is highly recommended to grab yourself an audio guide, before setting out to explore. This will only cost you a couple of pounds more than the standard adult admission of £11and is well worth it. You’ll be able to get the long or short, of anything that interests you as you explore.
Inside you’ll find old prisons, chapels, towers and if you are there by 1pm everyday (except Sundays) you’re in for a surprise…literally. Nothing prepares you for the explosive afternoon cannon. Every spectator knows what’s coming but there’s still a collective jump.
For many, the cannon signals the lunching hour. The Castle has a café which offers a beautiful view of the city while munching, but the Royal Mile and neighbouring streets have almost anything your stomach desires, from a hearty Scottish pub meal to fine Italian or spicy Thai.
Thirsty travellers only have to exit the castle gates to strike Scotland’s liquid gold. The Scotch Whisky Experience offers tours, a restaurant, bar and whisky!
Once through the doors with tour tickets in hand, you’ll find yourself sideways glancing at the unlikely crowd. Tourists, lovers of whisky and enthusiasts all gather for an insight into why they call Scotch whisky the water of life. Ticket prices will depend on how many drams of whisky you’re after, but all prices entitle you to at least one, which is where the fun starts.
A guide welcomes you immediately and hands out glasses of whisky with the strict instruction “don’t drink it yet”. At this point, anything the guide says is carefully listened to and abided.
After a quick introduction, it’s time to appreciate the whisky.
I was surprised to discover that the process is a little like that of the appreciation of wine. There’s swilling, smelling, sorry, nosing, and evaluation of colours and legs. It sounds fancy but the real interest was in the taste.
“Don’t drink it all at once”
For some that instruction came too late, though not being a whisky drinker it took many sips to get it down. And in appreciation it can be said that there really were vanilla and citric notes, but that was about as advanced as the palette got, the rest was all whisky which is a perfect summation of a long and thorough tour.
The mechanics and the history are well covered. The tour group is transported back through time, via the technology of a movie screen and a holographic bar tender, the Master Blender. You’re then sent on a barrel ride to the bar, here, comparative taste tests are taken of whisky blends and whiskies from specific regions.
The adjacent Amber restaurant has fantastic Scottish fare on offer – even the cheese board is worth noting. The cheeses were from various areas of Scotland and although it is not certain if they were a match for the Scotch whisky, we were assured that any food is good food with Scotch.
Just outside the city, in Bonnyrigg, is the spectacular Dalhousie castle. It is Scottish historic luxury at its best. Once there, you have the option of unwinding on the castles verdant pastures, sipping cocktails in the sophisticated library bar or give yourself a real treat, and get pampered in the Aqueous spa.
Dalhousie castle boasts an illustrious history as it housed Kings on their way to battles and even played its part in the defeat of William Wallace. The Castle was also feuded over and in many cases the family that won their claim depended on how much royal muscle they had behind them. Ask any of the friendly staff and they will take you on a castle tour you won’t soon forget. There are stair wells behind walls, dungeons and cellars, even a chapel that doubles as a gun room.
If you’re lucky – or perhaps unlucky - you may even bump into one of the early inhabitants, as it is rumoured that the castle is haunted – so it’s advised to have some one to warm up to when you hear the floorboards creak at night.
Dalhousie offers a range of themed rooms along with their standard rooms. No attention to detail is spared. These rooms are large and luxurious and include the Mary Queen of Scots and the William Wallace rooms. All contain elements of the historic figure or time they refer to and offer serious comfort. Find yourself on a king sized four poster bed or lounging by the window with sweeping views of the Scottish countryside.
Dinner here is 5 Star and breakfast follows this act nicely. If you fancy a wander around the grounds in the mornings, you’re in for a treat. Most days, at around 10am, the falconers train their birds.
Falconry has been popular at the castle for years and offers guests the ability to walk right up to the uncaged birds in action which is awe inspiring.
There’s one final history lesson before heading home, the Roslyn Chapel. It is a little out of the way, but definitely worth the trip. It will stir a level of reverence within you, as your mind boggles to think of the absolute mastery of craftsmanship taken to hand build the chapel. There were no signs from the Da Vinci Code, but you will encounter crypts of the mysterious templar knights who were said to have protected the true cross.
A whirlwind tour to Scotland is a perfect little adventure. A quick flight is all you need for a weekend of discovery, education and maybe even a spirited fright along the way. Whether done in luxury or on a budget, a memorable stay is guaranteed. |
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